Questions we answer every week
A century of pumping tanks boiled down to what we are asked most. If your question isn't here, call. We answer the phone seven days a week.
Pumping and your tank
How often should my tank be pumped?
Every 1–2 years for most households. As a rule of thumb: a family of four or more, once a year; fewer than four, every two years depending on use.
How big is my septic tank?
Tanks built before 1991 are usually 1,000 gallons. Codes changed in 1991, so houses built after that are 1,250 gallons or larger, and newer systems may have filters. Your septic design lists the tank size and system type. Newer homes should have a copy; if not, your town office will.
Why do you need my tank size for a quote?
Price depends on the volume we pump and haul, so tank size is the first thing we ask. If you do not know it, we can usually work it out from the age of the house.
How close do you need to park to the tank?
Our trucks carry roughly 200 feet of hose, which reaches most tanks. More hose is available at additional cost.
Do I need to find my lids first?
No. We locate and uncover the tank as part of the job, and can set risers so the next visit is faster and cheaper.
Can you come out today?
Often, yes. We work seven days a week and respond to every call within 24 hours.
What goes down the drain
What kind of soap should I use?
In dishwashers and washing machines, stick to liquids or gels. Powdered soaps can build up in the tank. Some natural powders are fine, but liquid is the safe default.
What kind of toilet paper should I use?
Single ply is best. Two ply is fine as well; what matters far more is that nothing else goes down the toilet.
Should I use additives in my tank?
No. There is no product on the market today that removes the need to periodically pump the tank. Additives are not a substitute for pumping.
Can I use a garbage disposal?
We recommend against it. Food solids go straight into the tank and shorten the time between pump-outs considerably.
My drains are gurgling! What's wrong?
Usually a plugged main line, or a tank that is flooded or overfull. Occasionally it is a vent problem instead. Either way, it is worth a call before it becomes a backup.
Baffles, boxes and corrosion
Should baffles be checked for corrosion?
Yes. We check them every time we pump, with a light or a mirror. On older tanks with cement baffles, the outlet baffle can fall off entirely, which lets solids move toward the leach field.
What is a distribution box?
It is the box connecting the tank outlet pipe to the rest of the lines in the system. It should be checked once a house is around 12–15 years old.
Does water quality affect the box?
It does. Distribution boxes last longer on town water, and corrode faster on well water or where a water softener discharges into the septic tank.
What if my system has a diverter box?
If yours has a splitter or diverter box, adjust it once a year to alternate which leach lines are in use. It meaningfully extends the life of the field.
Your septic system is your own treatment plant
City sewer comes with a sewer tax. You do not pay it — but the upkeep is yours. These are the habits that decide whether a system lasts twenty years or forty.
Do
Spread laundry over several days. A full day of washing puts in more water than the system can treat.Use biodegradable soaps and cleaning agents.Keep showers shorter; long showers add up to real water volume.If your system has a splitter or diverter box, alternate the leach lines once a year.Pump on schedule, symptoms or not.Don't
Pour cooking oil, grease or any other oil down a drain or toilet.Put paints or solvents down the drain - not even water-based paint.Flush anything but toilet tissue and what you have already eaten. Strict rule.Rely on additives instead of routine pumping.Neglect the system. It is a wastewater treatment plant, and it is yours.
4060 Dueber Ave S.W.Canton, OH 44706